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FAGGOT CUTTING
EXCERPT FROM TRUE BRITS ©JR DAESCHNER
Like capitalinos everywhere, many Londoners imagine themselves a cut above the provincial hoi polloi, far too busy and sophisticated to waste time or money on Olde Worlde traditions. Loudly proclaiming their love of multiculturalism, they're often quick to sneer at their own country's diversity, particularly when it takes the form of odd pastimes practised by Little Englanders, Weird Welshmen and Crazed Scots.
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However, London itself is teeming with traditions as strange and fascinating as anything you'll find in the provinces.
Most of these events take place in the very heart of the capital, in that bastion of 21st century banking, a global rival to Wall Street-the City of London.
There, between William the Conqueror's Tower and the all-conquering skyscrapers, right under the noses of the Masters of the Universe, thrives an alternate universe of gold and ermine, choirboys and boundary beatings, as well as boat races and blessings.
In common with their country cousins, many City-dwellers have a hard time explaining why they uphold these seemingly nonsensical customs: maybe it's simply because they're Londoners.
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Then again, who needs flu jabs when the Blessing of the Throats is just around the corner? In early February, office workers flock to Britain's oldest Catholic church-St. Etheldreda's in Holborn-to have a priest hold two candles over their necks in the sign of the Cross to honour St. Blaise (the patron of throats).
Every Good Friday, a sailor adds a hot cross bun to the mouldy collection hanging in the Widow's Son pub in Bow, each one a reminder of a son lost at sea many Easters ago.
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In the spring, several churches mark Ascension Day (40 days after Easter) with the "Beating of the Bounds"-whacking the boundaries of their parishes with sticks.
At All Hallows By The Tower, the officials hold a schoolboy upside down over the Thames to the accompaniment of the "Beating Hymn" sung by the congregation on shore; every three years, they also stage a mock standoff with the Beefeaters from next door, commemorating a blood feud from more than 300 years ago.
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The Goldsmiths' Hall off Cheapside hosts the annual Trial of the Pyx, a quality control check on the coinage of the realm that dates from at least 1282, inspiring imitations in the Commonwealth, the United States and even Japan.
Goldsmiths' Hall may back onto Gutter Lane, but there's nothing of the gutter about it. Hemmed in by narrow streets next to St. Paul's, the Italianate façade has unicorns, cornucopia and trumpets parading in between six Corinthian columns.
However, like so many buildings in the City, the grey stone exterior barely hints at the sumptuous grandeur within.
Granted, High Victorian Ostentation isn't everyone's cup of tea, but the golden hues of rose, emerald and blue immerse you in a warm bath of wealth.
Flushed with vicarious wealth and power, you feel like firing up a cigar, knocking back some cognac and clapping an old boy on the back.
After all, this is the Goldsmiths' Hall; it would be disappointing if it were anything but a temple to imperial splendour.
READ THE FULL STORY IN TRUE BRITS!
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